Before you arrive
After viewing the elegant steel and glass skyscrapers of Kuala Lumpur (KL) business district from an airplane, you will have no doubt that this city has come a long way since it was a rough hangout of tin miners and rubber tappers, who christened it the derogatory name Kuala Lumpur (or “muddy estuary”).
KL supporters of all races are proud of their prosperous city. The so-called Malay bumiputera (“sons of the soil”) make up the majority of the population, but large communities of Chinese and Indians add their own blend of spices to this delightful melting pot.
This is a predominantly Muslim town, but while it would be disrespectful to dress like you would in a beach town, there are no real restrictions. Most of the locals also speak at least a little bit of English, although a few sentences of Malay are always welcome.
The city is developing rapidly, but take the time to soak up the charm of the old town (colonial and cultural) instead of just focusing on the glamor of the shopping malls and the neon nightlife like many.
Petronas Twin Towers (Dreamtime)
At the airport
KL International Airport has two terminals (KLIA and LCCT2) that connect over 100 destinations. Both are about 60km from the city center, and KLIA has improved over the past few years with quick immigration and baggage handling so you’ll be on the road in no time.
ATMs are right when you leave the baggage hall; You can also buy a local SIM card there (show your passport to register). Pre-booked taxi stands can be found before exiting the arrivals hall, but can be expensive – follow “taxi” signs to the bottom floor and go to the kiosk that locals use for the best deals.
Get around
Since taxis are relatively cheap, it may cost less for two people to go downtown (MYR 100 [£19.30]) than taking the KLIA Express Train for MYR 55 per person (£ 10.60). If you’re on a serious budget – and have time to wait – the bus will only cost MYR 10 (£ 1.90). Most taxi drivers charge a 20% surcharge at night.
The drive into town takes about 40 minutes. Be sure to keep your eyes open – you could make this trip a hundred times and the sight of the iconic Petronas Towers glistening like two rocket ships on the horizon will keep you excited.
Other travel options
Cheap domestic flights mean that most travelers arrive by plane despite having a good public transport network. Trains from Singapore‘s JB Sentral Station to KL, via Gemas, takes about seven hours and costs from MYR51 (£ 10). A train from KL to Hat Yai (near the Thai border) via Padang Besar costs from MYR 160 (£ 31) and takes around nine hours.
Street food in Kuala Lumpur (Dreamstime)
First day tour
Visit SK Corner on Jalan Rembia and start your day with a delicious roti canai (flaky flatbread usually served with curry) and teh tarik (milk tea). Stop a taxi to the Suria KLCC shopping center and you will be dropped off in front of the impressive Petronas Twin Towers (petronastwintowers.com.my); The viewing platform on the 86th floor offers the perfect view of the city.
Next, take a taxi to Little India for the cheapest vegetarian thali (mixed plate) lunch in town and a unique souvenir hunt. Then visit the Museum of Fine Islamic Arts (iamm.org.my) to discover some really exquisite exhibits.
The majestic hotel (majestickl.com) on the Jalan Sultan Hishamuddin served afternoon tea from 3pm to 6.30pm – this is always a highlight of every trip. Then, stroll the calories on a stroll past the National Mosque (pictured) and down to Merdeka (Independence) Square, which was once the cricket ground of the Royal Selangor Club. now it houses the highest flagpole in the world (95 m).
For a sunset cocktail with a wonderful view of the Petronas, go to the sophisticated Coppersmith (troikaskydining.com). If you’re looking for cheaper international food, head to the street eateries along Jalan Alor instead, where you’ll find everything from Vietnamese pho (noodle soup) to luscious Turkish ice cream. End the day in the Heli Lounge Bar (34th floor, Menara KH). You’re sure to feel like a high-flyer sipping a G&T on a helipad high above KL’s Golden Triangle.
Museum of Islamic Art (Dreamtime)
Where to sleep
The top end: ‘Rustic Luxury’ Villa Samadhi (secret-retreats.com) is one of KL’s best kept secrets. Only ten minutes away from the main attractions, this boutique hotel offers an oasis of calm in an often hectic city.
Middle class: If you’re a fan of quirky design, Chaos Hotel (Chaos-Hotel.com) is the place for you. From the basement café to the apartments on the fifth floor, it presents itself in a contemporary-industrial manner, matching the location in the Bukit Bintang shopping area.
Budget: Sahabat roughly translated means “friend”. Spend a couple of nights at Sahabat Guesthouse (sahabatguesthouse.com) and you will find that this little gem has a good name. It’s also pretty good value for a clean, comfortable double room with its own shower. Help yourself for breakfast and with free-flowing coffee.
Stay or go
Batu Caves (Dreamtime)
Kuala Lumpur is often a base to see the rest of. to see Malaysia, with visitors who rarely stay long. But there is a lot to see and do here, and you have a few days to get to know it better. Then it’s time to explore the region …
It is worth devoting a full day to the Hindu temple in Batu Caves (half an hour by train from KL). From there it continues into the wilderness, cities, highlands and islands of the peninsula Malaysia. For culture lovers, Melacca (in the south) and Penang (in the north) are popular baits; Buses and trains from KL to get there take around three or seven hours.
The Cameron and Genting Highlands are great places to avoid the heat, while islands like Langkawi and Tioman are hideaways for those in search of the sun’s rays. Jungle trekkers find solace in Taman Negara National Park and in the eastern Malaysian states of Sabah and Sarawak on Borneo; The former is home to Mt. Kinabalu, Malaysia’s highest mountain (pictured).
Important information
Population: 7.2 million (subway)
Languages: Malay, Mandarin, and Tamil; English is widely spoken
Time zone: GMT + 8
International country code: +60
Visa: UK nationals receive a free 90 day tourist visa upon entry.
Currency: The Malaysian Ringgit (MYR), currently MYR 5.17 in UK £.
Best vantage point: The viewing area on the 86th floor of the Petronas Twin Towers (370 m above the ground) offers the best view. Another way to see the skyline is from the revolving restaurant at the top of the KL Tower (276 m).
Health problems: No special vaccinations are required. Street food is tasty and cheap, and while travelers occasionally pay with the KL quick step, it often has to do with the heavy seasoning.
Recommended travel guides: Kuala Lumpur, Melaka & Penang (Lonely Planet, 2014); Kuala Lumpur City Guide (Insight Guides, 2011); Kuala Lumpur Pocket Guide (Berlitz, 2015).
Web resources: The official website of the Visit KL tourist office is visitkl.gov.my, while more information is available on the Tourism Malaysia website (tourism.gov.my).
Useful apps: The Visit KL app (Android / iOS) is useful and intuitive and offers suggestions for activities, trails and an interactive map with recommended accommodations.
Climate: Temperatures typically vary between 26ºC and 35ºC. March and April herald the onset of the monsoon season (although luckily the rains are usually brief) and May to July is the best time to avoid the humidity.
Main picture: Kuala Lumpur (dream time)
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